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Aboriginals

CIVILIZATION
THE END OF THE CHONKEH


ABORIGINALS
 

The last native people to inhabit the Monte León area were the Chonkeh, also called Tehuelche or Patagones.

They were hunter-gatherers who had developed simple and effective techniques for surviving in a harsh environment which was nevertheless rich in game, water, firewood and shelter. Sheep farming in the late nineteenth century gave the final blow to their traditional way of life, which had already been deeply modified through contact with both the Araucanos of Pacific Patagonia and the white man.

Southern Patagonia, despite its unforgiving winters, is a place eminently suited for human habitation: water, game, shelter and firewood abound. Records of human presence in the area date back to neolithic times. These early inhabitants may have hunted the pleistocenic fauna, which included giant armadillos and sloth as well as the famous "sabre-toothed tiger".

Fossile remains of giant mammals are found at Monte León's coastal area, where examples of ancient lithic implements of several periods are also usual. Constant eolic erosion of Patagonia’s surface makes it hard to precisely date these tools, but researchers believe them to be at least 7,000 to 8,000 years old.

A legend of the Gennaken or Northern Chonkeh, a Patagonian Native people, recorded by Francisco Moreno in the late nineteenth century, tells of the "Engassen, a big, strange animal covered by thick plates like those of an armadillo". The story suggests an early coexistence of man and glyptodont (a prehistoric giant armadillo), or it may have been suggested to the Gennaken by fossile remains.

The surviving pleistocenic giant mammals were scaled down by evolution and climatological change: glyptodonts thrive today under the guise of armadillo, smilodons -sabre-toothed tigers- were replaced by puma, megatheria disappeared from Patagonia, and survived as ant-eaters and sloths in warmer regions of South America. Only man, the adaptable animal par excellence, survived in his original form.

All travelers who knew the Patagones, original lords of the land, were impressed by their height and strength. Patagonia's demanding environment seems to contribute to the production of exceptionally well developed individuals in many warm-blooded species. Birds like the tero-tero (plover) or carancho (cara cara), usual throughout Argentina, are uniquely stout and well developed in Patagonia. The same thing occured with the exotic, and enormously successful, European hare.

From prehistoric times, human groups of different stock occupied the area, sometimes simultaneously. The unyielding environment -which has remained esentially changeless for at least 11,000 years- must have imposed a similar way of life to them all.

From the days of the first, nameless, hunter-gatherers, to the last aboriginals -the Chonkeh- countless generations trod well defined circuits ranging over thousands of square miles. There, they settled for short periods where game was plentiful, living in solid portable homes made with poles (brought all the way from the woods in the Andes) and guanaco skin. It is at these spots that arrow heads, flint knives, scrapers, and stone balls from the "boleadoras" (a throwing weapon later adopted by the Gaucho), bearing the imprint of different "styles" or phases, bear witness to the presence of the aboriginals.

In 1520, the sailing fleet of Magellan stopped at what is now known as Puerto San Julián, a winter hunting ground some eighty miles North of Monte León. Pigafetta, one of the crew who kept a detailed record of the journey, writes of how, after a two month stay there, the Europeans first made contact with the Patagonian natives. They were visited by "a man of gigantic height (...) his robe was made of very well sewn skins from an animal that is plentiful here (...) He also wore shoes of a sort, made out of this skin. He carried a short, stout bow, which string, somewhat thicker than that of a lute, was made out of the guts of the same animal. He had several small arrows in his other hand, and their heads, instead of being, like ours, made of iron, were fashioned out of black and white flint".

This description suits the native peoples -indistinctly known as "Patagones" or "Tehuelches"- before their ways were transformed by contact both with the white man and the aboriginals from Pacific Patagonia. They called themselves "Chonkeh", which simply means "people" or "human being".

Pigafetta writes "our captain wanted to get hold of two of the youngest and stoutest of them, so as to keep them with us and take them later to Spain". He goes on to tell how they were put in irons, under the pretence that the shackles were bracelets, and forcibly taken on board.

In the nearly four hundred years that mediated between Magellan’s arrival and the final extinction of their traditional way of life, the Chonkeh and their ways were described by many Western travelers, with whom the Native Patagonians kept frequent contact. Malaspina’s expedition stopped by in late eighteenth century, and, after meeting the Chonkeh, the scientist wrote in his dairy that: "doubtless, the perusal of spirits was neither unknown nor disagreeable to them". Alcohol was the chief goods in trade the Patagonians received in return for ostrich (rhea darwinii) feathers, guanaco-skin robes and furs.

Drink and the new diseases brought by the white man were the chief agents in the decline and eventual disappearance of the traditional Chonkeh. Even so, it is worth noting the Indians found spiritual meaning in alcoholic intoxication, incorporating ritual libations to their sacred ceremonies, and never forgetting appropriate invocations even before the rather prosaic communal drinking bouts which followed a business transaction, in which they invariablywere taken advantage of.

The language of the Chonkeh seems to have survived since times immemorial. The few words recorded by Pigafetta in the early XVIth century, a vocabulary compiled two centuries after that by the Spanish viceroy Viedma, and one put together by the Anglican missionary Teófilo Schmit in 1862, among others, show a basic identity despite usually garbled transcriptions. The language spoken by the Haush or Northern Ona of Tierra del Fuego has striking similarities with that of the Chonkeh. Some researchers believe these peoples were part of a common race which was split when the Fuegian island separated from the Patagonian mainland in prehistoric times.

Estimating the precise number of the Chonkeh population at a given time is difficult. In 1863,Teófilo Schmit’s rough estimate is of about 1,000 individuals in the territories south of the Río Santa Cruz. Ten years later, an Englishman, G.C. Musters, who traveled for one year with the Chonkeh of chief Orkeke, and wrote down his experiences in the classic "At Home with the Patagonians", estimated them at 1.500, rapidly diminishing through drink and smallpox.

European influence on the Patagonians also made itself felt indirectly. The Araucano, Indians from the coastal woods of Pacific Patagonia, had intense contact with the Spanish conquistadores who arrived in Chile in the early sixteenth century. In the cruel war that lasted well into the nineteenth century, the Araucano, or more correctly "Mapuche", a word meaning "people of the land", quickly adopted the invader’s horses.

On the Atlantic side of the Andes, the first Spanish attempt of settling what today is Buenos Aires (1536) ended in disaster. Hounded by hostile natives and hunger, the Spaniards, led by Pedro de Mendoza, left for the next fifty years, leaving behind them a handful of cattle and horses. These ran wild in the infinite grasslands, and were soon increased to countless heads which roamed the Pampas. The Araucano, now skilled riders and thus capable of practically boundless journeys, were attracted by this wealth, and they began their raids across the Andes into what later became the Argentine, where a considerable number of them came to live permanently, from Patagonia to the Pampas.

Interaction between the Araucano and the Chonkeh, under the guise of war, trade and intertribal marriage, three intimately related activities, was increased. As early as 1580, Spanish explorer Sarmiento de Gamboa recorded that the Chonkeh had "a few horses". Horses are conspicuously absent from accounts of the Chonkeh until that date. After the second half of the XVIIIth century, the Chonkeh are invariably reported as being a people of horsemen, usually wearing woven woolen garments as well as their traditional skin robes: both innovations are Araucanian.

The last Tehuelche to be photographed in traditional garb, mid twentieth century, wear Araucano-like woven ponchos, heavy silver riding gear and "bota de potro", a boot made with the skin of a colt’s leg. Among present day Patagonians of native stock, the usual surnames are clearly Araucano. Hundreds of native cowboys who worked in Estancia Monte León since it began it’s activities more than one hundred years ago had Araucano surnames like Caucamán-Milapichún, Chipailaf or Millapán.


CIVILIZATION

In 1874, the Argentine general Julio Roca launched what was known as "La Campaña del Desierto", pushing the frontiers of civilization as far as the Río Negro in Northern Patagonia, in a war waged against the aboriginals of Chilean stock whom for centuries had kept Argentine burgeoning livestock industry in check. Roca’s drastic attack, heavily based on the new six-shot Remington repeating rifle, put an end to the uneasy, blood-stained co-existence of conquerors and conquered which spanned four centuries of ceaseless war and negotiations.

Even though warfare in northern Patagonia was a cruel, extermination-oriented business, Southern Patagonia Indians were pretty much left to themselves, as the lands they occupied were unanimously considered by Europeans to be essentially unfit for human habitation. Charles Darwin’s oft quoted remark about "the curse of sterility lying on the land", interestingly written while attempting to reach the sources of Río Santa Cruz across what later became part of Estancia Monte León, was certainly

influential in this respect. But with the march of progress, more practical considerations began to weigh more than the great scientist’s somewhat shallow impressions of Patagonia.

From the early sixteenth century onwards, English, Dutch and later North American ships had been hunting penguin, sea lion, and whale commercially on the Patagonian shores. Since the 1860s Isla Pavón, at the mouth of Río Santa Cruz, about 20 miles from Monte León, was settled by Argentine seaman Luis Piedrabuena. Piedrabuena not only conducted a brisk trade with the Indians —basically providing them with liquor in exchange for furs- but also upheld "de facto" Argentine territorial rights in the lands South of the Santa Cruz, also claimed by Chile.

Both Chile and Argentina successively installed representatives at Puerto Santa Cruz and were often on the brink of open war. Anglican missionaries, already established at the Falklands and Tierra del Fuego, attempted settling near Puerto Santa Cruz in the 1860’s, but their attempts proved unsuccessful. These various attempts to settle the area were all limited in scope and certainly did not contemplate encroaching on the ancestral lands of the Chonkeh.

This state of affairs changed by the 1880s. Starting at the previous decade, agricultural production in Great Britain was largely substituted by industry. The British Empire, then at the height of its influence, delegated food production —mainly frozen ovine meat- to the Commonwealth —Australia, Canada, New Zealand- and areas of influence: Uruguay and Argentina.

Sheep farming had been successfully attempted by the British at the Falkland Islands. In the 1860s, the pioneer entrepreneurs of the Chilean South based at Punta Arenas had brought over sheep from the Falklands to the Magellanic region with spectacular success. Thus, the solving of old border quarrels between Chile and Argentina became mandatory for further sheep farming in the area.

In 1881, an agreement -in which the British Crown acted as mediator- was finally reached between Chile and Argentina concerning the territories South of Río Santa Cruz, which were handed over to Argentina. With the area’s legal and political status thus settled, sheep farms -often under English and Scot management and owned by London-based public companies- were formed in what were until then the hunting grounds of the Chonkeh. The head-on encounter between a Prehistoric culture and the West at the peak of its expansion was, by necessity, fatal to the original lords of the land.


THE END OF THE CHONKEH

The sale of public land in Santa Cruz was soon under way. Naturally, the most sought after areas for sheep farming were those abounding in grass, water and shelter, which had been the Chonkeh traditional camping grounds for countless generations. These stop-overs were called Aike in the native language, and a quick glance at the map of present-day Santa Cruz reveals how many of them dotted the otherwise stark steppe. The Chonkeh were confined to reservations, where their speedy march to extinction was further accelerated.

Drink, disease and confinement of a people who had previously been on the march almost constantly were not the only agents of the extinction of the Chonkeh. A.F. Tschiffely, the Swiss traveler who rode from the Pampas to Washington in the 1920s, and traveled extensively in Patagonia in the 1930s writes in his wonderful "This Way Southward" of being shown a complete riding harness fashioned from the skin of an Indian. He also tells of shooting parties against defenseless Indians conducted by British sheep farmers from a small river steamer.

Francisco Moreno, the Argentine explorer has left a revealing testimony of the "scientific" approach to race which was prevalent in the West by the late nineteenth century -and, one might add, well into the twentieth. In his "Viaje a la Patagonia Austral" he writes about the Tehuelche (another name from the Chonkeh) Sam Slick, son of Casimiro, who, like his father, was a rather corrupt go-between between the white man and his people. "He allowed me to take his picture, but on no account would he accept his body, and specially his head to be measured. I do not know what strange preoccupation made him act thus. When I met him some time later (...) I proposed he come with me (on an expedition) and he refused, saying I wanted his head. Such was his destiny. Some days after I left, he was dastardly murdered by two other Indians during a drinking bout. As soon as I arrived back, I heard of his misfortune, found out where he had been buried, and exhumed his body -which skeleton I handed over to the Anthropological Museum in Buenos Aires- one moonlit night. This sacrilege was committed for the sake of osteological study of the Tehuelche".

The Argentine authorities’ scientific zeal was also patent in their final dealings with Orkeke, last of the Chonkeh chiefs, the grandson of a like-named chief whose presence in the area has been recorded by Viedma’s eigteenth century expedition. Orkeke and his dwindling tribe ranged over a vast hunting ground which included what would become Estancia Monte León. It was with them George Ch. Musters made his celebrated trip -of which he wrote in the classic "At Home With the Patagonians"-from Isla Pavón to Andean Chubut in the 1870s. Orkeke was also payed by the Argentine government to keep this country’s flag flying in the Santa Cruz territory, also claimed by Chile.

In the winter of 1883, less than two years after the agreement which made over to Argentina the territories South of the Santa Cruz, Orkeke and what remained of his people (fifteen men, thirty seven women and children) were taken into custody by colonel Vintter and taken to Buenos Aires in the Villarino, a small steamer. Orkeke’s imprisonment was officially an act of retaliation for a clash between government troops and a combined force of Araucano and Chonkeh in the plain of Apeleg, in Andean Chubut. The Apeleg incident -in which Orkeke and his people did not have the least participation- left a toll of one dead sergeant, one dead officer and eleven wounded soldiers on the Army’s side. Indian casualties rose to eighty.

Once in Buenos Aires, Orkeke´s tribe was emprisoned at the 1st Artillery Regiment, the Indian women in much demand as servants by people holding recommendations to that effect from various officials. "La Nación" daily newspaper reports of the Indians’ arrival and tells of "Notini, an elderly squaw who was such a patriot that she possessed two Argentine flags that were hoisted in her wigwam on festive occasions. Today, she mourns the loss not just of her flags, but also of 40 horses, 4 cows, 5 calves, a little money and several pounds of ostrich feathers, all of which was plundered by the invading soldiers who assaulted their encampment at dawn".

Orkeke and his people were allowed limited freedom, and treated to the sights and a non-stop series of social events. After their arrival in Buenos Aires on August 1, the dailies took to reporting their movements. Shortly after arriving, Orkeke had an audience with general Roca, the strategist responsible for the "Campaña del Desierto" who had by now been elected President of the Argentine Republic. A special performance of "Mefistófeles" was staged at the Teatro de la Alegría for the benefit of the Chonkeh on the 8th, on which occasion Mrs. Larsen and Lista enlightened the audience with a conference on the "Tehuelches" during the interval. Lista was the first governor of the new territory of Santa Cruz, and the author of an intelligent and heartfelt plea on the extinction of the Tehuelche.

On the 11th, the Chonkeh were treated to dinner at the Café de Paris. This time, the guests not only numbered Larsen and Lista, but the Spanish Plenipotentiary Ambassador, Mr. Durán y Cuerbo. One Mr. Comminges read a lengthy poem of his own penning about the Chonkeh. Next week, they were taken to the Skating Rink.

On September 6, "La Nación" reports Orkeke’s being at the Military Hospital, down with pneumonia. The same article tells of "Valeska, the tribe’s sorceress, who delivered her soul unto her Maker a few days ago, a victim to nostalgia. She could not forget her cold Patagonian hearth". On the 14th, "La Nación" reports Orkeke´s death, also stating the corpse was dissected by the Hospital’s practitioners.

The sequence ends on September 20th, when "La Nación", under the heading "Orkeke’s remains" reports as follows:

"By the end of this month, Orkeke’s skeleton, conveniently prepared, will be exhibited at the Military Hospital.

"After the flesh was taken apart form the bones, the body was submerged in lye so as to get rid of any minute fragments of flesh still clinging to it.

"Once this procedure is finished, the chief’s skeleton well be put back together. Those in charge of the dissection were stricken by the skull’s enormity and the thickness of the frontal bone. Shins and arms are of unusual dimension too.

"Orkeke´s skeleton will be kept at the Military Hospital".

When being shipped shortly after to the newly founded Museum of La Plata, Orkeke’s bones were mislaid and have never turned up since.

 

MONTE LEON PATAGONIA